Summer Camp, Munchkins and Monkey Bread

Many of you may not be familiar with "Monkey Bread." My first encounter was at summer camp when I was eight. Part of the camp's daily routine was a cooking class (explains a few things, doesn't it?). We made black and white cookies, pretzels, pizza and Monkey Bread. If you've never have had it, it's bit hard to explain. My best description is that it's a cake made of Munchkins, or donut holes, if you didn't grow up on Dunkin' Donuts. You make it in a Bundt pan, and serve whenever, although I think it's best-suited for brunch. At my camp we used a store-bought dough (Pillsbury biscuits), to make the sweet rounds of bread that fill the pan. It was delicious, but guess what's even more delicious? Making your own dough from scratch.

Of course, this recipe came from Cook's Illustrated, my bible. And of course it has many steps, but I wouldn't be sharing it with you if I didn't think it was worth it. I served it recently during a brunch with my good friends (and family) Katie and Eric. Weeks later we still can't stop talking about it when we get together.

Note: One essential piece of equipment here - a stand mixer

The dough
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened, plus another 2 tablespoons butter melted
1 cup warm whole milk
1/3 cup warm water
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 package rapid-rise yeast (or instant)
3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for kneading
2 teaspoons salt

Put the oven rack in the second to lowest position, and turn oven on to 200 degrees. When oven hits 200 turn it off

In bowl of stand mixer mix flour and salt. In a large measuring cup combine the milk, water, butter and yeast. Turn mixer on medium speed and add the liquid. Once combined allow mixer to go for 6-7 minutes until dough is nice and shiny. Coat large bowl with non stick cooking spray and pour dough in, cover with plastic wrap and place in warm oven for 60 minutes.

As the dough rises you'll need to prep the brown sugar coating.

Mix together 1 cup dark brown sugar, 2 teaspoons cinnamon. In another bowl melt 1 stick of unsalted butter.

Butter Bundt pan with the 2 tablespoons of softened butter.

When the dough comes out of warm oven, pour out onto floured surface. You will need to cut the dough into 64 pieces. It's really quite easy. Form the dough into a smooth round, and cut in half, then take each half and cut into quarters, then take each quarter and cut them into quarters. Once the dough is divided, roll it gently in your hands until it forms a smooth ball, then dunk in butter then roll in the sugar. Line the dough balls in the Bundt pan until you create a few even layers.

Cover with plastic wrap and let rise again for another 60 minutes in oven. Remove from oven, and heat oven up to 350 degrees. Place the bread in and cook for 30-35 minutes. Let cool in pan for 5 minutes, not longer. Turn cake unto a flat serving dish. Let cool for 20 minutes.

Optional: While bread cools, whisk together 1 cup confectionery sugar with 2 tablespoons milk. Drizzle glaze over top. Not necessary, but totally delicious.

"Axis and Allies," Phil McConkey and Steak Sandwiches

Lots of families have memories of playing board games like "Shoots and Ladders" and "Candyland" and watching Disney movies like "The Swiss Family Robinson." Our house was a little different. We played "Axis and Allies" and "Conquest of the Empire" and watched "Escape from Alcatraz" and "Bridge Over the River Kwai." We rarely missed a Giants game, and when necessary we listened to the game on the car radio. On rainy Saturday afternoons we watched a taped version of SuperBowl XXI when the Giants defeated the Broncos, always stopping to watch Phil McConkey catch Mark Bavaro's tipped ball for a touchdown in a tense fourth quarter a few extra times. Post-game we would re-enact the play in the living room with my Dad as Phil Simms and my brothers and I taking turns playing Bavaro and McConkey.

My Dad ran a tight ship. Whining was a great way not to get what you wanted. He rarely raised his voice to us. He didn't need to. A quick glare from Dad, and we would cease and desist. My Dad's dark hair is a striking contrast to his green eyes, and are more fitting of an Irish or Scottish red-head. I never met my Grandmother, but she was Scottish and fair skinned and I am guessing the eye color came from her. His eyes are his "tell," and they communicated a lot. Each look had its own message, some merely commands (be quiet, eat your dinner, listen to your mother, time for bed, etc.) and others a bit more complicated. Growing up my brothers and I learned the meaning behind each one.

There was the look he gave at church that signaled to put our coats on before Communion. After Communion we'd bless ourselves on our way to the car, and be home for opening kick-off. My Dad would do a quick prayer as we drove home. Not sure if it was an epilogue to the Mass or prelude for a Giant win, probably both.

There was the look he gave when we were acting up in the car on our way out to my Aunt and Uncle's place in Long Island. We could see his glare in the rear view mirror telling us that he planned to let us all out on the Throgs Neck Bridge if we didn't quit it.

There was the look he gave me when I pitched my first Little League game. I struck out the entire lineup. I'd like to think it was my pure talent, but I'm guessing that the boys, upon seeing a girl pitcher, swung as hard as they could at whatever junk I was throwing. Nevertheless, I remember the way my Dad looked when I glanced at him from the pitcher's mound.

There was also the look he gave his dinner if the contents appeared unfamiliar. It was a curious look with one eyebrow slightly raised. I wouldn't say he is a picky eater but I you could say he is a suspicious eater. You won't be catching him eating Pad Thai or Crunchy Spider Rolls. My Dad likes steaks and roasts, rye bread, hot dogs and sauerkraut, string beans, Le Sueur peas, ripe beef steak tomatoes, split pea soup, ham and cheese, bacon and eggs, and Steak-umms.

I can be pretty sure he's not eating Steak-umms any more, but when my brothers and I were kids I remember him making Steak-umms for lunch on weekends. We loved them. We ate them on rye bread from Wall's Bake Shop (Hewlett, LI). The bread was awfully nice for slabs of greasy steak, but growing up we ate everything on this rye bread..

When I was older and living on my own, I ran across Steak-umms in the freezer section at my grocery store. I was so excited. I bought them and went home and promptly made them. I didn't have the Wall's rye bread, but I made do. I wish I could say they were awesome, like I remembered, but they fell short. They also made my studio apartment smell pretty bad for a few days.

In an effort to relive this childhood memory, I am going to reinvent the steak sandwich so that it has more in common with real steak than with Steak-umms.

There are three simple elements to my steak sandwich; steak, cheese sauce and sauted onions. Use any bread you please. I like using a baguette, but use whatever makes sense to you.

Cheese Sauce
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon flour
1 cup of milk
1 cup of shredded Cheddar cheese
salt/pepper to taste

Melt butter in sauce pan, then add flour and wisk until smooth. Add milk and continue to whisk and then add cheese. If it's too thick for you, just add more milk. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Sauted Onions
1 teaspoon of vegetable
1 large onion, cut in half and sliced thinly
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon of pepper

Heat up large skillet with vegetable oil. Add onions and keep at medium to high. After a few minutes add salt and pepper. Let cook until golden brown and soft, and then remove from pan.

Steak
1 - 1 1/2 lbs of eye of round steak (place in freezer 30 minutes before dinner, then slice meat as thin as possible, almost shaving off pieces. Freezing the meat will make it easier to slice)
1 tablespoon of vegetable oil
salt/pepper to taste

Use the same skillet you used for the onions. Add vegetable oil, and heat on medium high. Before adding meat sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper. You will probably do this in two batches. The meat will only take a couple minutes on each side.

Once meat is done, arrange sandwich. I like to start with onions, then steak, then cheese sauce.

Delicious.

Broccoli and Cheese Soup

When I was 6 or 7, I remember my mother taking my brothers and me to the Galleria in White Plains. J.C. Penney was our spot at the mall, and we would get new pairs of jeans and our pictures taken at Penney's photo studio. Pictures and shopping were followed by a visit to the food court. I loved the food court. My brothers always went for a slice of pizza at Sbarro, but my mom and I went to the vendor who served up fluffy baked potatoes smothered in broccoli and cheese. It was an absurd amount of food for a child but I ate the whole thing. My mom did too. My brothers looked on with a bit of disgust. I'm sure they thought we were out of minds to pass on a slice of pizza for a meal that involved broccoli. Not sure what happened to the potato vendor at the mall. Guess it disappeared along with Orange Julius. Sadly, Sbarro is still kicking around.

Broccoli and cheese are a wonderful pairing. Not sophisticated per se, but it's homey and feels uniquely American, in that we love to throw cheese on our food whether it's hamburgers, french fries or apple pie. And broccoli can be off-putting, but cooked right and smothered in cheese, well, it's outrageous.

I came to writing this post via a recipe I found in the latest edition of Cook's Illustrated. I'm not even sure if I'd ever had a truly great version of broccoli and cheese soup before, but this version is definitely special. It's very rich and just perfect for a cold winter night.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 lbs of broccoli, cut into 1-inch florets (buy about 3 lbs at grocery story, by the time you cut them down and remove their woody stems you'll be left with 2 lbs)
1 medium onion roughly chopped
2 teaspoons dry mustard
a pinch of cayenne
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
3 cups chicken stock (homemade is always best)
2 cups fresh spinach
3/4 cup Parmesan cheese
3/4 cup grated cheddar cheese

In a large soup pot melt butter, then add onions, broccoli, salt, dry mustard and cayenne. Cook for about 5-7 minutes. Then add 1 cup of water, and the baking soda. Cook covered for 20 minutes on medium. Stir once at the 10 minute mark.

Add chicken stock plus 1 cup of water. Bring to a boil, then add spinach. Cook for a few more minutes then turn off stove. Puree the soup in small batches in your blender, adding some of each cheese to each batch before you puree. Pour pureed soup into large bowl. Let cool for at least an hour before refrigerating. If you you plan to serve right away, simply bring soup back up to a simmer in the same pot you've been using.

Sad News and Two Fabulous Soups

I have sad news to share with you all. You are not going to believe it. Make sure you are seated before you continue reading. Ready? Seated? Good. Here it goes. I made an Ina Garten recipe and it flopped. Moment of silence please.

Every Ina Garten recipe I've made resulted in tremendous success. She's always lists the right ingredients, measurements and cooking times. I should write her to tell her what happened. Anyone got her address in the Hamptons? Send along if you do. I promise not to visit her even though that would be awesome. I love her house. (It's featured on her FoodNetwork show.)

Now, you are probably wondering what Ina recipe to avoid. Steer clear of her lemon bars, unless you have a solution to getting them out of the 9 x 13 pan you bake them in. They refused to come out and it got messy. Chunks of lemon bar flew about the kitchen. The shortbread crust had a cement-like quality that fused with the baking dish making a tight, nearly water-proof seal. I almost had to toss the baking dish. Tragic.

So rather then sharing the lemon bar recipe as I had planned, I'm going to share two wonderful recipes for soup. Probably better for everyone's waistlines anyway. The recipes come from "The Splendid Table's How to Eat Dinner." It's a fabulous cookbook, and I've referenced it on my blog before. I highly recommend making your own stock if possible. It makes a big difference.

Curry Cauliflower Soup
(This is an an odd-ball soup, but if you like curry you will love this. It's creamy with no cream, and filling enough to serve for dinner)
1 large onion, small dice
5 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 tablespoons curry powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 large head of cauliflower, broken down into chunks (1 inch pieces)
1 lb potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks (1 inch pieces)
4 cups of chicken stock

Garnish
a few lemon wedges
plain yogurt (whole or low fat)

In a soup pot drizzle olive oil (1 tablespoon), and heat on medium-high. Saute onions and garlic. After a few minutes, add curry powder and salt. Cook for another minute or two and then add cauliflower, potatoes and stock. Bring to boil, and then on medium heat proceed to cook for 20-30 minutes until potatoes and cauliflower are fork tender.

You can puree soup with blender or hand held emulsion blender. If you are doing it in your blender like I did, let soup cool a little and do it in small batches so that the blender doesn't explode soup everywhere.

Serve with a squirt of lemon and a dollop of yogurt.



French-Style Tomato Soup
(This is a fairly traditional, but the dry vermouth, fennel seeds and cinnamon make it different and special)
1/2 teaspoon dried basil
1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cups tomato paste
1/3 cup dry vermouth
3 medium onions, finely chopped
3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 28-ounce can of diced tomatoes
4 cups of chicken stock
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

Combine dried herbs and crush them with your finger tips to make them fragrant. In a soup pot drizzle olive oil (1 tablespoon), and heat up on medium-high. Saute onions and garlic. After a few minutes add salt, pepper and dried herb mixture. Cook for another moment or two and then add tomato paste. Stir with wooden spoon until ingredients are fully combined. Then add vermouth and the can of tomatoes. Let boil for 2 to 3 minutes. Then add broth, and bring back to boil. Lower to medium and let cook for 20 minutes. Stir in cinnamon, and it's ready to serve.

Delicious.

Lobster Risotto for My Spoiled New Year's Baby

Hello reader(s)! Belated Happy New Year to you! Like many of you, I'm sure, I'm working on tapering down from a holiday season full of delicious but excessive dining and imbibing - and I promise I'll post something healthy very soon - but let's go back for a moment and relive the holiday season at my house. Let's do it in verse form, shall we? Humor me.

'Twas the holiday season
And from start to end
I found myself cooking
For family and friends.

It started with cookies
Of all types and styles,
Then we hosted with stew
(Bourginon a la Child).

On Christmas Eve we fed many,
A buffet of crab, shrimp and lamb,
All the while smiling,
Cocktail in hand.

And on Christmas morning,
Oh, did we eat!
Smoked salmon & eggs,
Homemade sticky buns - sweet!

Then we had more guests,
My father's whole clan,
For more crab dip, shrimp cocktail
And a spiral cut ham.

And you'd think we'd be finished,
The New Year impending,
But I thought "Just one more dish!
Something worth remembering!"

So we invited some guests
Lit a fire to set the mood.
Then I made a quick list
And ran off to Whole Foods.

There, I purchased some rice,
Caviar and some lobster.
Once home, I commenced
Risotto fit for a mobster.

But our guests were sick or busy,
So it was just me & the hubby.
We put the kids to bed
And opened some bubbly.

Soon, dinner was ready,
Delicious, fragrant risotto.
Topped with more lobster meat
And salty sturgeon roe.

I presented it fireside
And thought "wow, this is nice"
Just as my husband said
"Meh. It's just rice."

Just rice?!! I'm incredulous!
It's perfection! Just right!
But he just shrugged his shoulders
And took his next bite.

The nerve, I thought!
He might as well have said Ick!
Can't he be complimentary
Instead of being a dick?

Now it should be said -
I knew before our aisle march -
That there is a disparity
In our respective love of starch.

Still, I was bummed.
I had thought it a treat.
And he did eat it up
But I still felt defeat.

He apolozied profusely;
He hadn't meant to be rude.
The flavor is amazing,
But it's not his favorite food.

In the end, I forgave him;
He'd not meant to offend.
It seems I've spoiled my baby
Through great food with no end.

The wind gone from my sails,
I suddenly felt tired.
And instead of ringing in the new year,
We fell asleep by the fire.

It's clear to me now -
As I guess it always was -
That when we feed people
We really serve part of us.

So diners, keep in mind,
Cooking comes from the soul!
Please consider your chef's efforts
As you gaze into your bowl.

And as for my husband?

He's a really good guy,

And the upside, of course,

Is he'll usually give me his fries.

Happy 2011! Make some lobster risotto, even if it's just for you! But find somebody to help you eat it...those resolutions won't keep themselves!

Lobster Risotto with Champagne, Tarragon & Caviar
Ingredients:
3 T. good olive oil
2 large-ish shallots, diced
1 small (or 1/2 medium) yellow onion, diced
2 cups Arborio rice
1/2 c. champagne (or prosecco or, in a pinch, good, dry white wine)
10 cups fish fumet (concentrated fish stock), seafood stock or lobster stock
About 12 - 16 oz. lobster meat (I bought four 3-4 oz. tails)
2 T. fresh chopped tarragon
1 T. fresh chopped chives
1/2 c. freshly grated parmigiano reggiano(or more), plus extra for garnishing
salt & pepper
about 2 T. Butter (optional)
about 2 T. caviar for garnish (optional)

* In my opinion, buying larger lobster tails doesn't pay. They tend to be more expensive and the meat ends up tougher because it is steamed in its shell - which takes longer for larger lobsters - and then essentially cooked again when added to the risotto. If you are making your own stock and therefore need whole lobsters, that's a good reason to go with bigger crustaceans. I was lucky enough to find fresh Fumet at Whole Foods, but I suspect it was there specially for the holiday.

Instructions:

Over a pot of seasoned water, steam the lobster tails until just cooked (4 to 5 minute for smaller tails). Remove from steamer and allow to cool before removing meat from shells. Set aside.

In a large skillet or stockpot, heat olive oil over medium high heat. Add shallot and onions and saute until translucent, stirring continuously, about 3 minutes. Add rice and saute until rice is coated with remaining oil and onions are incorporated, about a minute or two. Add champagne and stir continuously until moisture is absorbed. Begin adding stock or fumet, about 1 cup at a time, stirring constantly and waiting until liquid is almost entirely absorbed before adding the next cup. You will continue this process for about the next 30 minutes until the rice achieves the correct consistency (moist but not runny; dense but not gluey, al dente). Remove from heat.

Roughly chop about 1/2 to 2/3 of the lobster meat, reserving the remaining 1/2 to 1/3 in tact to slice and serve atop the roisotto. Stir the chopped meat into the risotto. Then, stir in the parmigiano, tarragon & chives. If adding butter (I really never do), fold it quickly in at this point.

Plate servings of risotto in bowls. Garnish with additional cheese, sliced lobster meat and a dollop of caviar. This recipe makes 8 side dish portions or 4 generous main course servings. Enjoy it. If the people you serve it to don't enjoy it, kick them out of your home and eat their risotto for dessert. Never let the bastards get you down!

NOTE: Please, please, if you have leftover risotto ~ refrigerate it overnight. Form into 1 1/2" balls, roll in panko and fry in 1/2" of olive oil until it is golden brown. Enjoy these - arancini - as the wonderful treat that they are! I think they're supposed to be good luck or something. Of course, here at my house, I say good luck finding any leftovers.

Happy New Year, My Wakeful Toddler, and Orange Vanilla Panna Cotta

Happy New Year everyone! I had every intention of writing and posting this item Saturday during my son Simon's nap. Yesterday morning he woke up crying -- bad sign. By 11 a.m., he was rolling around on the living room floor rubbing his eyes and screeching. I took him upstairs for his nap, which I hoped would be a long slumber. He was out in minutes. I showered and organized the kitchen and living room, and then sat down to write. It was 11:52, and I heard a soft moan coming from Simon's room. I prayed that he might find his way back to sleep. I always hope that will happen and it never does.

Since Simon was born he's struggled with sleep. He's a year and half now, and he's pretty much mastered falling asleep on his own, but staying asleep, well, that's a different story. My husband and I are always amazed by how loudly he cries when he's tired. He screams at the very top of his lungs. At Thanksgiving, when we were visiting my husband's family in Los Angeles, he cried so hard the first night that he lost his voice. I'm sure when we eventually expand our family our next child will be good sleeper and be very quiet. That's how it works, right? (I don't actually want anyone out there to answer this question, so please keep your thoughts to yourself, thank you very much)

Now, back to the point of the post. I made Orange Vanilla Panna Cotta for dessert on New Year's Eve. I had made an Asian-themed dinner, and I thought this made for a refreshing, cool ending. I adapted this from another cookbook Morgan (my sister-in-law) gave me last year, "The Splendid Table's How to Eat Supper." It reminds me of a creamsicle, but better because you eat it with a spoon. The texture is similar to soft serve ice-cream. It's dreamy.

Orange Vanilla Panna Cotta

2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin
2 tablespoons cold water
3 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla
zest of 1 orange
1 cup sour cream

Mix gelatin and water, and set set aside. On medium-high heat combine cream, sugar and vanilla in a saucepan. Bring to a near boil, and then remove from heat and add gelatin mixture. Let cool for a few minutes. In a large bowl combine sour cream with zest, and then gently pour cream mixture over top. Mix until smooth.

Pour 1/2 cup to 3/4 cup portions into ramekins or small bowls. Juice glasses or small mugs can work too. You will serve this in whatever you use. This panna cotta is super soft, and I wouldn't try to plate it. I think they would just turn into a puddle, not pretty and hard to eat.