Can you believe that Anthony Bourdain came to Washington, DC and featured Chadwicks? This is old news (the show aired in 2008), but it still bothers me. "No Reservations" came to DC and spent 15 minutes in a place that serves loaded potato skins, soggy fries, and well-done burgers. I like Bourdain so I'm going to distribute the blame evenly between him and the producers of the show. How did they research DC? Did they Google, "I'm a sweaty tourist and I'd like to eat mediocre food in Georgetown, where should I go?" To be fair, the episode also featured Jose Andres, which is better. Andres is an awesome chef and brand with an equally awesome accent, but I see him more as an ambassador for Spanish food than a representative of DC. And if Bourdain wanted to showcase a Washington tradition, Old Ebbitt would have been the spot, not Chadwicks. You can get your raw oysters, crab cakes, rockfish and ribeyes. Very DC. It's not going to blow you away and it's painfully crowded but the food is consistently good and it's great for people watching.
Actually, I'm at a loss to think of a chef that captures this city's personality. When I think of the places I love to eat in DC none of them are very "DC." Brasserie Beck, Bistro Lepic, Palena Cafe, Indique, Et Voila, Blue Duck, Sonoma, Dino and Ardeo are fabulous but aren't exactly capturing DC's soul. I see Bourdain's dilemma. Let's examine DC for a moment. The native population seems more southern then northern, but there are lots of transplants from all over the country and the world. I need to find a chef with big personality and likability. They should have a southern style with an international edge. Hmmm ... who can be DC's culinary voice?
I thought for several days. Then it came to me. She has not blown up yet, but I nominate Carla Hall from Top Chef (Season 5). Jaques Pepin does not look like an easy guy to impress, and she blew him away with peas. I like Carla. Colicchio can roll his eyes all he wants when you talk about making food with "love," but when you make food with love you show respect to the food and the cooking process. I can drink and eat to that. Cheers! Bon Appetit! Carla now runs a catering business -- Alchemy Caterers == which is fine, but I want to eat her food whenever I want. Open a restaurant! I'd come a lot, and I'd bring friends. And I'd write about it on my blog, and the 3 people that read this blog will also go. Carla: Are you listening? You are the ideal candidate. You are southern-born, perfect for DC. You went to Howard University, awesome. You traveled to Europe as a model, so cool. You returned and went to L'Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, Maryland, fabulous. And you are very very tall. Doesn't really have anything to do with anything, but I think it adds to your charm.
In honor of my nomination, I am posting a recipe inspired by one of Carla's winning episodes. She made a nectarine and strawberry tartlet with thyme, lemon and cream. I love the idea of including fragrant herbs like thyme, basil or rosemary in sweet dishes. Mint is not the only herb that gets to crossover from savory to sweet.
Watch your back, mint. Your friends are coming for you.
The pound cake recipe comes from Cook's Illustrated "Baking Illustrated" cookbook. I added the lemon and rosemary to honor Carla. This cake is very dense, and is almost like a short bread.
Lemon Rosemary Pound Cake
16 tablespoons softened unsalted butter
1 1/3 cups sugar
3 large eggs plus 3 egg yolks
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 1/2 teaspoons water
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups cake flour
zest of 4-5 lemons
1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped rosemary
Pre-heat oven to 325, grease 9 x 5 loaf pan, and line it with parchment paper. You'll need to use two sheets that overlap each other. This is a fairly annoying step, but if you don't do it you might not get your cake out, and you'll have to hack into with a fork or spoon. Not pretty. Cut parchment paper to fit the length of the loaf pan, and then cut another piece to fit the width. You'll want the parchment paper to line the bottom and sides and have an inch or two hanging over each edge.
With a hand mixer beat sugar and butter together. In a separate bowl whisk eggs, vanilla, water and salt. Then add egg mixture in a stream to sugar and butter with hand mixer on. Once incorporated, fold in lemon zest and rosemary, then fold in flour in 1/2 cup increments.
Pour mixture into lined cake pan. Bake for 70-80 minutes. Mine took 75 minutes. Start checking at the 70 minute mark by inserting a toothpick. If it comes out clean, it's done.
Let the cake rest for 5 minutes, then pull it out of loaf pan. The parchment paper will make this easy.
Let cool for another 20 minutes.
It's delicious.
I bet it would also be awesome if you used basil or even thyme.
Actually, I'm at a loss to think of a chef that captures this city's personality. When I think of the places I love to eat in DC none of them are very "DC." Brasserie Beck, Bistro Lepic, Palena Cafe, Indique, Et Voila, Blue Duck, Sonoma, Dino and Ardeo are fabulous but aren't exactly capturing DC's soul. I see Bourdain's dilemma. Let's examine DC for a moment. The native population seems more southern then northern, but there are lots of transplants from all over the country and the world. I need to find a chef with big personality and likability. They should have a southern style with an international edge. Hmmm ... who can be DC's culinary voice?
I thought for several days. Then it came to me. She has not blown up yet, but I nominate Carla Hall from Top Chef (Season 5). Jaques Pepin does not look like an easy guy to impress, and she blew him away with peas. I like Carla. Colicchio can roll his eyes all he wants when you talk about making food with "love," but when you make food with love you show respect to the food and the cooking process. I can drink and eat to that. Cheers! Bon Appetit! Carla now runs a catering business -- Alchemy Caterers == which is fine, but I want to eat her food whenever I want. Open a restaurant! I'd come a lot, and I'd bring friends. And I'd write about it on my blog, and the 3 people that read this blog will also go. Carla: Are you listening? You are the ideal candidate. You are southern-born, perfect for DC. You went to Howard University, awesome. You traveled to Europe as a model, so cool. You returned and went to L'Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, Maryland, fabulous. And you are very very tall. Doesn't really have anything to do with anything, but I think it adds to your charm.
In honor of my nomination, I am posting a recipe inspired by one of Carla's winning episodes. She made a nectarine and strawberry tartlet with thyme, lemon and cream. I love the idea of including fragrant herbs like thyme, basil or rosemary in sweet dishes. Mint is not the only herb that gets to crossover from savory to sweet.
Watch your back, mint. Your friends are coming for you.
The pound cake recipe comes from Cook's Illustrated "Baking Illustrated" cookbook. I added the lemon and rosemary to honor Carla. This cake is very dense, and is almost like a short bread.
Lemon Rosemary Pound Cake
16 tablespoons softened unsalted butter
1 1/3 cups sugar
3 large eggs plus 3 egg yolks
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 1/2 teaspoons water
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups cake flour
zest of 4-5 lemons
1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped rosemary
Pre-heat oven to 325, grease 9 x 5 loaf pan, and line it with parchment paper. You'll need to use two sheets that overlap each other. This is a fairly annoying step, but if you don't do it you might not get your cake out, and you'll have to hack into with a fork or spoon. Not pretty. Cut parchment paper to fit the length of the loaf pan, and then cut another piece to fit the width. You'll want the parchment paper to line the bottom and sides and have an inch or two hanging over each edge.
With a hand mixer beat sugar and butter together. In a separate bowl whisk eggs, vanilla, water and salt. Then add egg mixture in a stream to sugar and butter with hand mixer on. Once incorporated, fold in lemon zest and rosemary, then fold in flour in 1/2 cup increments.
Pour mixture into lined cake pan. Bake for 70-80 minutes. Mine took 75 minutes. Start checking at the 70 minute mark by inserting a toothpick. If it comes out clean, it's done.
Let the cake rest for 5 minutes, then pull it out of loaf pan. The parchment paper will make this easy.
Let cool for another 20 minutes.
It's delicious.
I bet it would also be awesome if you used basil or even thyme.
1 comment:
This was a great read! I love herbs in dessert. Must try this poundcake...
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