America's Test Kitchen and (Chocolate Chip Cookies)

First, let me be clear about the Cook's Illustrated/America's Test Kitchen empire: I love the magazine, the cookbooks, website and show. Recipes are precise, descriptions of techniques are detailed and include pictures and diagrams. My only problem is they are patronizing. The show leads with Christopher Kimball, the editor, talking about some all-American dish -- macaroni and cheese, roast beef, baked ziti, buttermilk biscuits, etc. He then proceeds to crap all over the way most home chefs make it. Kimball declares: "Whenever you taste baked ziti at your stupid pot lock dinners, it's almost always disgusting." Kimball sighs and continues, "Well, today we are going to show you fools how to make a baked ziti that's worth eating." I'm exaggerating, but only a little. (Here's how he actually describes the typical dish: "Overcooked ziti in a dull, grainy sauce topped with a rubbery mass of mozzarella.") My baked ziti could use some improvement but I think it's pretty tasty. "American's Test Kitchen" has never let me down. When they reinvent recipes the results are wonderful, but do they need to be such jerks?

Can you imagine a show about another regional cuisine that starts off by crapping on the way the average local cook prepares that very cuisine? Think how absurd it would be if Mario Batali had started off Molto Mario with a rant about how terrible the gnocchi was on his last visit to Italy. Of course, that could never happen because no Italian has ever made a bad meal, but let's pretend for a moment. I'm not disagreeing that American home chefs could use a little help, but don't break our spirit. If you want to attack someone, go after the real "bad guys," like Marie Callenders, Tysons, Stouffers, Lean Cuisine, etc. These companies are fooling everyday Americans into thinking that defrosting and reheating their food is simpler and healthier than roasting a whole chicken in your oven.

Listen up Kimball, ease up on us home chefs. We may have more to learn but that doesn't mean we aren't already making tasty food for our families and friends. Including baked ziti.

In honor of ATK's love of American food and hate of home chef's' execution, I'll be making a version of their chocolate chip cookies. I came to know this recipe from Mehan's Kitchen, which adapted it from an issue of Cook's Illustrated. These are truly the best chocolate chip cookies ever. Instead of using softened butter, this recipe uses brown butter. The cookie itself tastes like caramel.

What's more American then chocolate chip cookies? Well, I guess apple pie, that's first. Chocolate chip cookies are a very close second.

1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
14 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup granulated sugar
3/4 cup dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
1 1/4 cups chocolate chips (use whatever you like, dark, milk, semi-sweet)
3/4 cup chopped pecans, walnuts or whatever nut you like or skip this altogether

Preheat oven to 350.

Whisk flour and baking soda first in small bowl. Heat 10 tablespoons of butter in sauce pan. Stir constantly. Butter will bubble and then brown. You will start to see brown flecks when the browning starts and then it will take a few more moments.

Remove from heat and pour hot brown butter in a large bowl. Add the rest of the 4 tablespoons of butter, and stir until melted and slightly cooled. Then whisk in sugars, salt and vanilla. Once smooth add in eggs. Beat until the batter is shiny and looks like caramel. Then fold in flour in increments. Then add chocolate chips and nuts.

Line baking sheet with parchment and measure 1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons portions for each cookie. Arrange 12 cookies on baking sheet and bake for 12-14 minutes.

Makes 24 cookies.